Cool Paris

Albert Kahn designed a magnificent garden to match his own imaginary world, peaceful and free of boundaries. The eccentric banker and philanthropist of the 20th-century left to posterity more than four hectares of roses, fruit and cedar trees, a playful Vosgean forest and a host of English, French and Japanese gardens.

Though the garden is located just 50 metres from the metro, the silence of this poetic place leaves you world’s away.Your senses awaken as soon as you enter the garden. The odour of the fruit trees mingle with the sounds of water flowing from the fountains and the birds sing joyfully in this refreshing environment. There are no signs to indicate the way through the gardens, each visitor must follow his own individual path. Let the beauty of the English roses seduce you, the serenity of the Japanese gardens soothe you and the cool of the blue forest refresh you.

We visited the place in summertime and it is indeed a peaceful garden. Also the museums gives an overview of a part of the history of photography (1910-1940) because Albert Kahn had a wonderful project to create a colour photographic record of, and for, the peoples of the world. As an idealist and an internationalist, Kahn believed that he could use the new autochrome process, the world’s first user-friendly, true-colour photographic system, to promote cross-cultural peace and understanding. Kahn used his vast fortune to send a group of intrepid photographers to more than fifty countries around the world, often at crucial junctures in their history, when age-old cultures were on the brink of being changed for ever by war and the march of twentieth-century globalisation.

Albert Kahn Jardin et Musée , 10-14 rue du Port, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, M° Boulogne Pont de Saint-Cloud(last stop of line 10), one minute walking to the entrance, open from 11 am to 6 pm, closed on Monday

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At Gridskipper I read some nice walk . While the weather is still nice and the indian summer gives you a happy feeling just before winter comes in, have a stroll in the lesser known museum gardens in Paris. Everybody knows about the Luxembourg Garden and the Tuileries, they are nice, that’s true but maybe you’re in for something more exclusive : 

- Jardin du Musée Bourdelle, 18, Rue  Antoine Bourdelle, 75015 Paris,  dedicated to the artist Antoine Bourdelle — is located at the foot of the hideous Tour Montparnasse, and is a surprising oasis in a junky area.

- Le Musée Galliera, 10, Av. Pierre 1er De Serbie, 75116 Paris, The 19th-century Musée Galliera in front of the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris puts on temporary exhibitions devoted to fashion. Its garden is a great spot.

-Le Musée de la Vie Romantique, 16, Rue Chaptal, 75009 Paris,  The charming garden at the Musée de la Vie Romantique is a nice place to take a break and sip a nice cup of tea.

- Musée Cognacq-Jay Garden, 8, Rue Elzévir, 75003 Paris,  A small hidden museum on a side street in the Marais, the Musée Cognacq-Jay — whose permanent collection is composed of 18th-century objects, the garden is only open for the public in summer.

- Musée Carnavalet Garden,23, Rue De Sévigné, 75003 Paris,  The Musée Carnavalet is dedicated to the history of Paris, and its landscaped courtyard garden in the heart of the Marais is a beautiful place to escape. 

- Musée du Petit Palais Garden ,Av Winston Churchill, 75008 Paris,  The interior garden of the Petit Palais, Paris’ museum dedicated to beaux-arts, was renovated in 2005. Have a drink in the cafe/restaurant under one of the palm trees.

 

 

 

 

 

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To help you explore the City of Light, I found 4 interesting walks for all legs, moods and degrees of curiosity in the Thalyscope. 

If you want to hear the heartbeat of imperial and aristocratic Paris, then you should journey into the city’s historic centre. We investigate the area around the Seine ( duration: 3h30)

It all began on the “Ile de la cité”, more than 2000 yeras ago. Your starting-point is Notre-Dame cathedral. Look carefully at the richly decorated façade adn visit the little garden behind the cathedral to view the flying buttresses and the elegant spire. 

Then walk to the Palais de Justice where you will be amazed at the Sainte-Chapelle (open 10-17h), it’s a masterpiece of French Got. You need to go inside because there are so many stained-glass windows in which the daylight conures up magnificent shades of gold, royal blue and crimson. If you don’t want to qeue, than you can take a ticket for a concert in the evening.

Now walk past the Conciergerie and come to Place Dauphine (dubbed “the genitals of Paris” because of the shape of this esplanade and its central location in the city). This place is my favorite Place in Paris. I find it so romantic and there are several places where you can have a nice drink or even eat a little snack.The place Dauphine opens onto the Pont Neuf, despite its name, it is in fact the city’s oldest bridge. When the weather is fine, the stone benches make a fantastic observation ponts over the Seine. Descend the steps and walk to the tip of the island. What could be more romantic !

The right bank owes it aristocratic cachet to the Louvre. Enter the palace via the Cour Carrée and the Cour Napoléon, where the famous pyramid fo I.M.Pei was enthroned in 1989. The Louvre was a medieval fortress and its foundations are still visible today. Have a seat at Café Marly to enjoy the view from the terrace behind the row of columns.

The Tuileries are a delightful 24 hectare park in the heart of the city. Do as the habitués do and take the time to relax in one of the metal armchairs. This green oasis is also an open-air museum with sculptures by great artists (Rodin, Dubuffet,Giacometti, Maillol, …)Walk to the middle of the garden and then follow the avenue to the right which will take you to the Rue de Rivoli.

From there the Rue de Castiglione leads to the stately Place Vendôme, where an architectural gem awaits you. This place is the most sumptuous address in Paris. At n° 12 you’ll find the jeweller Chaumet ( the firm mad the wedding finery for Empress Mari-Louise, Napoleon’s second wife). To the left at nr° 15 is the mythical hotel Ritz. Having lunch there at l’Espadon is affordable or heading for a drink at the Hemingway Bar in the evening is great fun. The Bloody Mary was invented here. And so you can admire the glitzy interior of the hotel. Also take the time to study the Colonne Vendôme in the middle of the square. 

Now walk into the prestigious Rue Saint-Honoré and admire the shops : this is “the” street for fashion. The  Ladurée tea salon on the corner of the Rue Royale is the perfect place to rest your feet and sample the pastries in an Empire-style setting. The speciality of the house is the macaroon, two crunchy biscuits sandwiched together with a layer of cream, available in a whole host of exotic flavours. A taste of heaven.

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I read this at Fodors last month , it was posted by Rachel Klein : 8 Essential Stops for Your Next Visit

If seeing Julie & Julia has inspired a trip to Paris, visiting Julia Child’s haunts will help you experience the city as she did. Some restaurants, markets, and shops below are featured in the movie, such as E. Dehillerin, where she bought kitchen supplies, and Shakespeare & Company, where she thumbed through French cookbooks. Others she writes about in her autobiography, My Life in Paris.

E. Dehillerin : Julia Child was a regular here; and this is where she’d buy kitchenware while she was attending cooking school at Le Cordon Bleu.

Visit It: E. Dehellerin has been around since 1820. Never mind the creaky stairs; their huge range of professional cookware in enamel, stainless steel, or fiery copper is gorgeous. 18–20 rue Coquillière, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries

Shakespeare & Company : Browsing here and in other bookstores in Paris, Julia came to realize that there weren’t any French cookbooks in English that would be accessible to an American audience.

Visit It: A sentimental Rive Gauche favorite, Shakespeare & Company is named after the bookstore whose American owner, Sylvia Beach, first published James Joyce’s Ulysses. Nowadays it specializes in expat literature. You can count on a couple of eccentric characters somewhere in the stacks, a sometimes-spacey staff, the latest titles from British presses, and hidden secondhand treasures in the odd corners and crannies. Poets give readings upstairs on Monday at 8 pm; there are also tea-party talks on Sunday at 4 pm. 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e, Quartier Latin. 01–43–25–40–93. Metro stop: St-Michel

Les Halles : Although the famous market is now gone, this is where Julia came to shop for meats and various groceries. She preferred her neighborhood marketplace on rue de Bourgogne, though, just around the corner from her apartment at 81 rue de l’Université, which she called “Roo de Loo.”

Visit It: Home to the city’s wholesale food market until the 1960s, Les Halles is still the place to go for late-night onion soup or steak frites, washed back with gulps of cheap and tasty red wine.Faced with the unsightly 1970s shopping mall known as the Forum des Halles, it’s hard to conjure up the colors, sounds, and smells of the wholesale market that once existed here. Emile Zola dubbed Les Halles “the belly of Paris,” and although the belly has shrunk significantly since the market moved to the suburb of Rungis in 1971, it’s not completely empty. The cobblestone street market on Rue Montorgueil (open daily except Sunday afternoons and Monday) is still a feast for the senses. And some area restaurants continue to offer savory, market-inspired fare. Newcomers to Les Halles should tread carefully. A hub for 800,000 daily commuters, the area attracts chain restaurants and street hawkers. With all of the commotion, it’s easy to overlook worthy shops and eateries.

Le Grand Véfour : Julia and her husband Paul happened upon this Paris institution while exploring the Palais Royal. They visited the restaurant once a month thereafter.

Visit It: Victor Hugo could stride in and still recognize this restaurant, which was in his day, as now, a contender for the title of most beautiful restaurant in Paris. Originally built in 1784, it has welcomed everyone from Napoléon to Colette to Jean Cocteau under its mirrored ceiling, and amid the early-19th-century glass paintings of goddesses and muses that create an air of restrained seduction. Foodies as well as the fashionable gather here to enjoy chef Guy Martin’s unique blend of sophistication and rusticity, as seen in dishes such as frogs’ legs with sorrel sauce, and oxtail parmentier (a kind of shepherd’s pie) with truffles. There’s an outstanding cheese trolley and for dessert, try the house specialty, palet aux noisettes (meringue cake with chocolate mousse, hazelnuts, and salted caramel ice cream). Prices are as extravagant as the decor, but there’s an €88 lunch menu. 17 rue de Beaujolais. 01–42–96–56–27. Reservations essential; jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends, Aug., 1 wk in Apr., 1 wk at Christmas. No dinner Fri. Metro stop: Palais-Royal.

Deux Magots : This is where Julia and Paul went on their first Saturday in Paris and ordered café complet.

Visit It: This classic café, which overlooks the St-Germain des Preés church, specializes in chocolate chaude, which is the main reason to go these days. Made with milk and pure chocolate, this hot beverage is served in a lovely white porcelain pitcher. 6 pl. St-Germain des Prés, 6e. 01–45–49–31–29.

BHV : When Julia and Paul moved into their apartment at 81 rue de l’Université, she discovered that she liked shopping and housekeeping, and didn’t mind assisting Frieda, the building’s femme de ménage (maid). It was to BHV that she’d go to buy everything from light bulbs to a garbage can.

Visit It: Short for Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, BHV houses an enormous basement hardware store that sells everything from doorknobs to cement mixers and has to be seen to be believed. There’s even a hardware-theme café, where how-to demos are held. The fashion offerings are limited, but BHV is noteworthy for its huge selection of high-quality household goods, home-decor material, electronics, and office supplies. If you’re looking for typically French household items (those heavy, gold-rimmed café sets, gorgeous French linen, or Savon de Marseille), this is your ticket. 52–64 rue de Rivoli, 4e, Beaubourg/Les Halles. 01–42– 74–90–00. Metro stop: Hôtel de Ville.

Marché aux Puces St-Ouen : Learning how to cook various dishes at Le Cordon Bleu meant Julia had to add special supplies to her already-full kitchen. She and Paul took a trip out to this market, where she went looking for the huge, heavy mortar and pestle needed to prepare quenelles de brochet (a Lyonnais fish dish).

Visit It: Also referred to as Clignancourt, this market on Paris’s northern boundary still attracts the crowds when it’s open—Saturday to Monday, from 9 to 6—but its once-unbeatable prices are now a relic of the past. The century-old labyrinth of alleyways packed with antiques dealers’ booths and brocante stalls sprawls for more than a square mile. Old Vuitton trunks, ormolu clocks, 1930s jet jewelry, and vintage garden furniture sit cheek by jowl. Arrive early to pick up the most worthwhile loot (like old prints). Be warned—if there’s one place in Paris where you need to know how to bargain, this is it!

If you’re arriving by métro, walk under the overpass and take the first left at the Rue de Rosiers to reach the epicenter of the market. Around the overpass huddle stands selling dodgy odds-and-ends (think pleather, knockoff shoes, and questionable gadgets). These blocks are crowded and gritty; be careful with your valuables. If you need a breather from the hundreds of market vendors, stop for a bite in one of the rough-and-ready cafés. A particularly good pick is Le Soleil (109 av. Michelet; 01–40–10–08–08).

Au Pied de Cochon : As famous a brasserie then as it is now, Julia came here—sometimes in the hours just before dawn after a night out—for their traditional onion soup.

Visit It: One of the few remnants of Les Halles’ raucous all-night past is this brasserie, which has been open every day since 1946. Now run by the Frères Blanc group, it still draws both a French and a foreign crowd with round-the-clock hours and trademark traditional fare such as seafood platters, breaded pigs’ trotters, beer-braised pork knuckle with sauerkraut, and cheese-crusted onion soup. It’s perfect ribsticking fare for a winter’s day or to finish off a bar crawl. The dining room, with its white tablecloths and little piggy details, feels resolutely cheerful. 6 rue Coquillière. 01–40–13–77–00. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro stop: Les Halles.

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